Deosai National Park: Surviving the Land of Giants

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Deosai — "the Land of Giants" in the Balti language — is the second-highest alpine plateau in the world. Sitting at an average altitude of 4,114 metres (13,497 feet) above sea level, it is a 3,000-square-kilometre rolling wilderness of wildflower meadows, glacial streams, and snow-melt lakes, framed by the peaks of the western Himalayas and the Karakoram. It is a national park, protected since 1993 for the Himalayan brown bear, the golden marmot, the snow leopard, and a fragile alpine ecosystem that exists nowhere else on Earth. For travellers, Deosai offers one of the most visceral wilderness experiences accessible from Pakistan — but the altitude, the weather, and the terrain demand respect. This guide explains how to visit Deosai safely, what to expect, and how to prepare.

Getting There

Deosai is accessible by 4x4 vehicle from two main gateways: Skardu (Baltistan) in the east and Astore (Gilgit-Baltistan) in the west. The Skardu route is the more popular and the more spectacular — a 2.5-hour drive on a rough jeep track from Skardu town, through the Shigar Valley, over the Burji La pass (4,500 m), and down onto the plateau at Ali Malik Mar. The Astore route is shorter but steeper, climbing from the Astore Valley over the Chilim Chowki pass.

Both routes require a proper 4x4 vehicle — typically a Toyota Hilux, Land Cruiser Prado, or Jeep Wrangler. Sedans and most SUVs cannot handle the track. The journey is genuinely rough — expect jarring bumps, water crossings, and steep drop-offs. Motion sickness tablets are recommended for passengers. The driving is best done by an experienced local driver who knows the track — Kimi Travels arranges this on every Deosai trip.

Deosai is open from late May to early November. Outside this window, the plateau is buried under several metres of snow and the tracks are impassable. The wildflowers peak in July, the golden marmots are most active in August, and the Himalayan brown bears are most visible in September when they come down to lower ground to feed before hibernation.

What to Expect on the Plateau

Deosai is genuinely unlike anywhere else in Pakistan. The plateau is a rolling sea of grass and wildflowers — forget-me-nots, primulas, anemones, and the Himalayan blue poppy — stretching to the horizon in every direction. There are no trees, no buildings, and (mostly) no other tourists. The silence is total. The sky is intensely blue at this altitude, and the sunlight is harsh even on cool days.

The signature sight is Sheosar Lake — a 2.3-kilometre glacial lake at the western edge of the plateau, framed by the snow-capped peak of Nanga Parbat (8,126 m) in the distance. The reflection of Nanga Parbat in the still water of Sheosar Lake in the early morning is one of the great photographic moments of any Pakistan trip.

Wildlife is the other draw. The Himalayan brown bear — once hunted to the edge of extinction in this region — has recovered under the protection of the national park. There are now approximately 40–50 bears on the plateau. They are most often seen in the early morning and late afternoon, foraging in the meadows. Your driver-guide will know where the latest sightings have been. The golden marmots are far more common — they stand on their hind legs at the entrances to their burrows and whistle warnings as you approach.

Surviving Deosai: Practical Tips

Altitude. Deosai sits at 4,114 m. If you arrive directly from sea level (Karachi, Lahore) you will feel the altitude — shortness of breath on minor exertion, mild headache, disturbed sleep. Spend at least one full day acclimatising in Skardu (2,228 m) before going up to Deosai. If you have a history of altitude sickness, consult a doctor before booking. Children under 5, pregnant women, and people with respiratory or cardiac conditions should not visit Deosai.

Weather. Even in July, the plateau can be 10°C colder than Skardu town, with strong wind and occasional rain squalls. Pack a fleece, a windproof outer layer, and a warm hat. The temperature drops sharply when the sun goes behind a cloud — be prepared.

Sun. At 4,114 m the UV is intense. Apply high-factor sunscreen every 2 hours, wear a wide-brimmed hat, and wear sunglasses with UV protection. Sunburn at this altitude is severe and rapid.

Hydration. The dry mountain air dehydrates you faster than you realise. Drink at least 3 litres of water during your day on the plateau. Carry refillable bottles — do not buy single-use plastic bottles, as there is no waste management on the plateau.

Food and toilet. There are no restaurants and no proper toilets on the plateau. Bring a packed lunch from your hotel in Skardu (sandwiches, fruit, energy bars). For toilet, your driver-guide will find a discreet spot behind a rock formation. Carry tissues and hand sanitiser.

Leave no trace. Deosai is a fragile alpine ecosystem. Take all your rubbish with you — including tissues, fruit peels, and plastic bottles. Do not approach or feed the wildlife. Do not pick the wildflowers. The plateau belongs to the bears, the marmots, and the snow leopards — we are the visitors.

Standing with Palestine

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I camp overnight on Deosai?
A: Yes, with a permit from the national park office. There are basic campsites at Ali Malik Mar and Sheosar Lake. Temperatures at night drop below freezing even in July — bring a 4-season sleeping bag.

Q: Is Deosai safe for solo female travellers?
A: The plateau itself is safe, but we recommend travelling with an organised group or a reputable guide. The 4x4 track is rough and there is no mobile signal on most of the plateau.

Q: What is the entrance fee?
A: live rates per foreign national, live rates per Pakistani citizen, with additional vehicle fees. Kimi Travels handles the permit paperwork on every trip.

Ready to plan your Deosai expedition? Kimi Travels offers customised itineraries with experienced 4x4 driver-guides. Visit kimi.pk/packages for live pricing.